Halperin came into San Simón Zuluaga in late October, a couple of
days before the fiesta of the local patron saint, when the men of the
town would dance in masks. He wanted to see that. This part of Mexico
was famous for its masks, grotesque and terrifying ones portraying
devils and monsters and fiends. Halperin had been collecting them for
three years. But masks on a wall are one thing, and masks on dancers in
the town plaza quite another.
San Simón was a mountain town about halfway between Acapulco and
Taxco. “Tourists don’t go there,” Guzmán López had told him. “The road
is terrible and the only hotel is a Cucaracha Hilton—five rooms, straw
mattresses.” Guzmán ran a gallery in Acapulco where Halperin had bought a
great many masks. He was a suave, cosmopolitan man from Mexico City,
with smooth dark skin and a bald head that gleamed as if it had been
polished. “But they still do the Bat Dance there, the Lord of the
Animals Dance. It is the only place left that performs it. This is from
San Simón Zuluaga,” said Guzmán, and pointed to an intricate and
astonishing mask in purple and yellow depicting a bat with outspread
leathery wings that was at the same time somehow also a human skull and a
jaguar. Halperin would have paid ten thousand pesos for it, but Guzmán
was not interested in selling. “Go to San Simón,” he said. “You’ll see
others like this.”
“For sale?”
Guzman laughed and crossed himself. “Don’t suggest it. In Rome, would
you make an offer for the Pope’s robes? These masks are sacred.”
“I want one. How did you get this one?”
“Sometimes favors are done. But not for strangers. Perhaps I’ll be able to work something out for you.”
“You’ll be there, then?”
“I go every year for the Bat Dance,” said Guzmán. “It’s important to
me. To touch the real Mexico, the old Mexico. I am too much a Spaniard,
not enough an Aztec; so I go back and drink from the source. Do you
understand?”
“I think so,” Halperin said. “Yes.”
“You want to see the true Mexico?”
“Do they still slice out hearts with an obsidian dagger?”
Guzmán said, chuckling, “If they do, they don’t tell me about it. But
they know the old gods there. You should go. You would learn much. You
might even experience interesting dangers.”
“Danger doesn’t interest me a whole lot,” said Halperin.