A couple of summers ago I was staying with old friends in my
native county, on the Welsh border. It was in the heat and drought of
a hot and dry year, and I came into those green, well-watered valleys
with a sense of a great refreshment. Here was relief from the burning
of London streets, from the close and airless nights, when all the
myriad walls of brick and stone and concrete and the pavements that
are endless give out into the heavy darkness the fires that all day
long have been drawn from the sun. And from those roadways that have
become like railways, with their changing lamps, and their yellow
globes, and their bars and studs of steel; from the menace of instant
death if your feet stray from the track: from all this what a rest to
walk under the green leaf in quiet, and hear the stream trickling
from the heart of the hill.
My friends were old friends, and they were urgent that I should go
my own way. There was breakfast at nine, but it was equally
serviceable and excellent at ten; and I could be in for something
cold for lunch, if I liked; and if I didn't like I could stay away
till dinner at half past seven; and then there was all the evening
for talks about old times and about the changes, with comfortable
drinks, and bed soothed by memories and tobacco, and by the brook
that twisted under dark alders through the meadow below. And not a
red bungalow to be seen for many a mile around! Sometimes, when the
heat even in that green land was more than burning, and the wind from
the mountains in the west ceased, I would stay all day under shade on
the lawn, but more often I went afield and trod remembered ways, and
tried to find new ones, in that happy and bewildered country. There,
paths go wandering into undiscovered valleys, there from deep and
narrow lanes with overshadowing hedges, still smaller tracks that I
suppose are old bridlepaths, creep obscurely, obviously leading
nowhere in particular.
It was on a day of cooler air that I went adventuring abroad on
such an expedition. It was a "day of the veil." There were no clouds
in the sky, but a high mist, grey and luminous, had been drawn all
over it. At one moment, it would seem that the sun must shine
through, and the blue appear; and then the trees in the wood would
seem to blossom, and the meadows lightened; and then again the veil
would be drawn. I struck off by the stony lane that led from the back
of the house up over the hill; I had last gone that way a-many years
ago, of a winter afternoon, when the ruts were frozen into hard
ridges, and dark pines on high places rose above snow, and the sun
was red and still above the mountain. I remembered that the way had
given good sport, with twists to right and left, and unexpected
descents, and then risings to places of thorn and bracken, till it
darkened to the hushed stillness of a winter's night, and I turned
homeward reluctant. Now I took another chance with all the summer day
before me, and resolved to come to some end and conclusion of the
matter.
I think I had gone beyond the point at which I had stopped and
turned back as the frozen darkness and the bright stars came on me. I
remembered the dip in the hedge, from which I saw the round tumulus
on high at the end of the mountain wall; and there was the white farm
on the hill-side, and the farmer was still calling to his dog, as
he—or his father—had called before, his voice high and
thin in the distance. After this point, I seemed to be in
undiscovered country; the ash trees grew densely on either side of
the way and met above it: I went on and on into the unknown in the
manner of the only good guide-books, which are the tales of old
knights. The road went down, and climbed, and again descended, all
through the deep of the wood. Then, on both sides, the trees ceased,
though the hedges were so high that I could see nothing of the way of
the land about me. And just at the wood's ending, there was one of
those tracks or little paths of which I have spoken, going off from
my lane on the right, and winding out of sight quickly under all its
leafage of hazel and wild rose, maple and hornbeam, with a holly here
and there, and honeysuckle golden, and dark briony shining and
twining everywhere. I could not resist the invitation of a path so
obscure and uncertain, and set out on its track of green and profuse
grass, with the ground beneath still soft to the feet, even in the
drought of that fiery summer. The way wound, as far as I could make
out, on the slope of a hill, neither ascending nor descending, and
after a mile or more of this rich walking, it suddenly ceased, and I
found myself on a bare hill-side, on a rough track that went down to
a grey house. It was now a farm by its looks and surroundings, but
there were signs of old state about it: good sixteenth-century
mullioned windows and a Jacobean porch projecting from the centre,
with dim armorial bearings mouldering above the door.